Google Nexus 10 Take Apart First Look

November 16th, 2012

Today we received and promptly disassembled the Google Nexus 10. In usual fashion we’ll release the take apart video next week, but wanted to go ahead and post the preliminary take apart steps and photos. The model we’ve taken apart is the 16GB Wi-FI model. Model # GT-P8110.

One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!

Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?

To view the Part Locator (Exploded View) for the Nexus 10, click here.

Click on any photo below to view a larger image.

	Here’s the initial pre take apart photo.
	Begin the take apart by flipping the Nexus 10 over and take off the back cover plate.
	Remove 5 Philips #00 screws under the back cover.
	Work your way around the display using a flat tool and suction cup to separate the display and internals from the back case.
	The back case should separate easily from the rest of the Nexus 10.
	You can now remove any green anti-static tape you see in the unit. The next step is to disconnect the battery. The battery connector is rubberized as opposed to plastic and has flexibility. This means it would be very difficult to break the battery connector when disconnecting it. Again, another plus to the repairability factor.
	Disconnect the three orange cables. Digitizer cable (far left orange cable). Part #: MANTA GT-P8110 GT-P8110KTL. Dock Connector / Microphone / LED cable. LCD Display cable Part #GT-P8110_LCD_FPCB Rev. 1.0 (Manufactured 9/18/2012)
	Remove the 11 Philips #00 screws holding down the battery. The battery lifts up and out. Battery Specs: Samsung Li-Ion 3.75V 22.75Wh 9000 mah SP3496A8H. GB/T18287-2000
	Disconnect 2 #00 philips screws holding the charging dock / microphone assembly. Some light adhesive holds it in place and then just lift out. Part # CUCIALTEC GT-P8110 POGO_MIC_RGBW LED FPCP
	Disconnect micro USB cable. Disconnect Speaker cable (immediately next to micro USB)
	Disconnect front facing camera. The camera just lifts out.
	Remove 1 philips #00 screw holding LED flash. Unplug flex cable. Flash pops out.
	Rear facing camera pops off with flat tool.Part #: DGC39V87 TP8110_G
	The volume buttons are held on with loose adhesive and come out easily with the aid of a flat pry tool.
	Disconnect the right speaker cable. The speaker lifts up and out.
	Remove 3 #00 Philips screws holding down the emi shield on the micro usb + headphone board + vibrator assembly.
	You can now lift the emi shield out and lift up on the vibrator assembly.
	Remove one screw holding down logic board.
	The logic board lifts up and out. There is a slight adhesive where the vibrator assembly cable goes under the logic board.
	You can now remove the left speaker.
	Remove 2 Philips #00 screws holding the Micro HDMI board. The board just lifts out.Part # GT-p8110hdmifpcb Macufactured 9/12/12
	The volume cable in held in place with adhesive. Use a flat tool to remove. Part # GT-P8110 PBA DS.HF. R. RO.7 C39.
	There are two heat shields on the logic board that can be removed by removing the 7 Philips head #00 screws. This allows you to disconnect the vibrator assembly. Here is some info from some of the logic board chips.(Flash Memory – SAMSUNG KLMAG2F2A) (Processor – SAMSUNG EXYNOS GZE003D1 K30F2F200M)(Broadcom – Wireless)(Amtel – mxt1664s)
	That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.

Posted in Uncategorized | 26 Comments »

This entry was posted on Friday, November 16th, 2012 at 4:15 pm and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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26 Responses to “Google Nexus 10 Take Apart First Look”

1. 26
   Jake Says:
   May 19th, 2013 at 3:38 am

   @John: I am thinking about fixing the creaking problem in a similar way. I’m ordering a tool kit now. Please post your experience if you attempt the modification. Thanks.

2. 25
   John G Says:
   May 15th, 2013 at 11:10 pm

   @Bradley: thank you!

3. 24
   Bradley Says:
   May 15th, 2013 at 3:36 pm

   @John – That’s a personal call. I’d never recommend putting a foreign item in a device that didn’t have it to begin with.

4. 23
   John G Says:
   May 15th, 2013 at 2:15 pm

   Thank you Bradley. Do you think it would be safe to stick a small square foam sticker on the battery so that the back cover doesn’t give in?

5. 22
   Bradley Says:
   May 15th, 2013 at 10:10 am

   @ John – Taking it on and off may help. It’s really difficult to tell without having the device here.

6. 21
   John G Says:
   May 15th, 2013 at 2:19 am

   I was wondering… can I use these instructions as a means of fixing my N10 back cover’s give-in/flex/creaking problem? Maybe just unscrewing and rescrewing should fix it? Or maybe I could insert something like a folded piece of paper between the battery and the back cover to reduce the flexing and the creaking sound? Any advice from you experienced nice people would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

7. 20
   DC Says:
   April 23rd, 2013 at 9:18 am

   Does anyone know where I can find a replacement screen and digitizer ? I have looked for weeks now…

8. 19
   Adam Roman Says:
   April 17th, 2013 at 12:50 pm

   Following these retarded, thrown-together instructions Exactly caused my touch screen cable to be partially sliced apart, destroying the connection to two columns!!! If you do not wish to ruin your Nexus 10, DO NOT insert the flat tool parallel with the surface of the screen as shown in the fourth picture! To disassembly this unit Properly, insert the flat tool Downward, perpendicular to the screen, then pry outward, working along to all the clips. The way this unit’s back unclips properly from the internal frame is by prying the sides of the plastic back Outward, Then Down to unlock them! There are 4 clips along the left side, 9 along the top, 5 on the right, and 8 at the bottom. Holding the tool parallel to the surface scrapes it along the touch screen, eventually slicing through the cable if it’s at a certain slight angle. Trust me, I found out the hard way, and hope this will help others. Thanks for the instructions, but you owe me $500!!!

9. 18
   Bradley Says:
   March 23rd, 2013 at 7:49 am

   @ Jordan – Your best bet is to take off the display, create a very slight separation between the glass and LCD and use compressed air to blow it out.

10. 17
    Jordan Says:
    March 22nd, 2013 at 1:09 pm

    @Bradley… A sugar ant has seemed to find its way between the display and digitizer on my N10… intimating there is a decent gap between the two… how would I extract the little rascal?

11. 16
    Bradley Says:
    March 4th, 2013 at 9:19 am

    @ Carlos – The memory is soldered to the logic board.

12. 15
    carlos Says:
    March 2nd, 2013 at 4:19 am

    Regards memory (16 versus 32) what is the difference? Is the memory solved to the board? Is the board a different one? I guess the 32 GB model doesn’t have a clip thingy with a 16 GB module isn’t?

13. 14
    Bradley Says:
    February 25th, 2013 at 9:40 am

    @ Jens – It is extremely difficult.

14. 13
    Jens Says:
    February 22nd, 2013 at 5:48 pm

    When you sat that the display and digitizer are fused together are you saying its close to impossible to take them appart or just difficulty?

15. 12
    Joakim Says:
    February 14th, 2013 at 7:03 pm

    Umm, someone going blind? The battery clearly says 33.75 Wh, as Frank notes it should. You might want to correct the typo he pointed out, where you incorrectly list the capacity as 22.75 Wh.

    That said, nice breakdown and thanks for the pics.

16. 11
    Bradley Says:
    February 4th, 2013 at 10:28 am

    @ Mossey – No, additional memory can not be added.

17. 10
    Mossey Says:
    February 3rd, 2013 at 11:48 pm

    Can additional memory be added by the end user and if so does it need to be soldered.

18. 9
    Bipin Says:
    January 16th, 2013 at 10:59 am

    can u veirfy that the bluetooth chip which has FM radio is actually wired to the headphone jack neutral or no as the chip has FM but some say its disabled or mayb the antenna is not wired so its no use?

19. 8
    Patrik Gårdewall Says:
    December 29th, 2012 at 11:27 am

    ohh sorry
    just found it after looking at your pics.

    have a good one!

20. 7
    Patrik Gårdewall Says:
    December 29th, 2012 at 11:25 am

    where is the CPU located?

    answer the fucking question now!

21. 6
    Patrik Gårdewall Says:
    December 26th, 2012 at 9:10 pm

    great shots!

    i need to know one thing here
    how is the frame tighten the glass?
    can you remove the frame and adjust the pressure for the glass?

    i have just found what causes lightbleed on some devices and it starts
    when the glass bends up on the sides.
    to soft glass or wrong pressure from the frame should be the problem.

22. 5
    Bradley Says:
    December 17th, 2012 at 12:40 pm

    @ Russ – A closeup of the battery has been added at the end of the post.

23. 4
    Russ Says:
    December 15th, 2012 at 2:19 pm

    @Bradley – Frank’s math looks right. Would it be possible to post a close up picture of the battery showing the numbers? Maybe Samsung has a typo on their labels? If so, it would be interesting to know which parameter is misspecified!

24. 3
    Bradley Says:
    December 11th, 2012 at 11:22 am

    @ Frank – The numbers came directly off the battery.

25. 2
    Frank Says:
    December 11th, 2012 at 6:04 am

    Typo in the Wh? 9000 mAh * 3,75 V = 33750 mW = 33,75 Wh

26. 1
    Damon M Says:
    November 27th, 2012 at 10:21 pm

    Is the Invensense gyro chip inside?

    Thanks.