It looks like Samsung is another winner in supplying parts for the Kindle fire as they are supplying both the ram and flash memory as well as the Display ( ltl089cl02-001) (Texus Instruments is the supplier for the processor is this model. We improperly noted it was Samsung in the first revision of this post.)

One thing unique about this device is that it appears to be using a dual battery design with two battery cells connected via a battery controller board, but with two separate logic board connections. The battery seems on the small side at 6000MAH 22.2wh.

In most Kindle models, the back case has just been cosmetic and is the first thing removed, however in this model most of the internals are attached to the back case. This will make changing out the LCD / Digitizer assembly a piece of cake. ( Of course the digitizer and LCD are fused as seems to be the norm nowadays.)

To see the exploded view (Part Locator) for the Kindle Fire HD 8.9″, click here.

On to the take apart.

	Here is the initial pre-take apart photo.
	Use a flat pry tool all around the back casing to undo the clips holding the back case to the display.
	The two halves will separate but remain connected by the LVDS and digitizer cables.
	Disconnect the LVDS Cable and the digitizer cable. The two halves will separate.
	Working on the half with the battery, remove the 16 Philips #00 screws holding the heat shield on the battery.
	The heat shield lifts out.
	Disconnect both battery connectors.
	Disconnect the LVDS cable from the logic board. (LVDS cable part number: PN PCB: 30-000348 Rev 06 MFC3 DC 4112)
	Disconnect Micro-Usb / Micro-HDMI cable from logic board.
	Ports lift out. (Part number PCB 30-000346 Rev 07 MFC DC 4112)
	Remove antistatic tape from speaker connectors.
	Disconnect the right and left speaker cables.
	Disconnect volume and headphone board flex cable.
	Logic board lifts out.
	Disconnect and remove daughterboard flex cable. (Part number PCB: 30-000347 REV 06 MFC3 DC4112)
	Disconnect and remove camera (Part number 12p2bf105 l:240e2 4)
	Disconnect ambient light sensor.
	Disconnect the two wi-fi cables.
	Wireless daughterboard lifts up. Includes antenna / light sensor / camera.
	Remove the black adhesive on the middle of the battery.
	Use a flat tool to lift up the battery to break the adhesive bond…apply pressure from several points so as not to damage the battery. (Part Numbers: 6000MAH 22.2wh, PN: SWD P/N S2012-002-D, Type P/N 58-000015, Model No. S2012-002)
	The battery lifts out.
	Disconnect volume flex cable (Part Number PCB: 30 000345 REV06)
	Remove antenna board / camera holder.
	Disconnect ambient light sensor. (Part number: PCB: 30-000429 MFC3 DC4012)
	Remove 2 Philips # 00 screws from the headphone board.
	Remove headphone board.
	Remove 1 Philips head screw from emi shield over power button and volume cables.
	Volume and power buttons slide out.
	Volume power button cable held on with adhesive. Use flat tool to pry out. Lift cable assembly up and out.
	Here’s the logic board with heat shields removed. The main thing to note are the memory and flash are both made by Samsung. (RAM K3PF/E700M GKG82497, Flash KLMAG2GE4A-A001)
	That’s it. The LCD and digitizer are fused together, so that is the process for the components that can be removed.

One thing that struck us about this disassembly was the complete ease of taking this tablet apart. Whereas Apple seems to be making it more and more difficult to repair devices by combining parts and using as much glue as possible, Google seems to be taking the complete opposite approach. The end result is a device that is extremely repairable. Go Google!

Another interesting note is how many of the components in the device are manufactured by Samsung. It appears that the battery, processor, and flash memory are all made by Samsung. Is this Google’s way of capitalizing on the drift between Apple and Samsung?

To view the Part Locator (Exploded View) for the Nexus 10, click here.

Click on any photo below to view a larger image.

	Here’s the initial pre take apart photo.
	Begin the take apart by flipping the Nexus 10 over and take off the back cover plate.
	Remove 5 Philips #00 screws under the back cover.
	Work your way around the display using a flat tool and suction cup to separate the display and internals from the back case.
	The back case should separate easily from the rest of the Nexus 10.
	You can now remove any green anti-static tape you see in the unit. The next step is to disconnect the battery. The battery connector is rubberized as opposed to plastic and has flexibility. This means it would be very difficult to break the battery connector when disconnecting it. Again, another plus to the repairability factor.
	Disconnect the three orange cables. Digitizer cable (far left orange cable). Part #: MANTA GT-P8110 GT-P8110KTL. Dock Connector / Microphone / LED cable. LCD Display cable Part #GT-P8110_LCD_FPCB Rev. 1.0 (Manufactured 9/18/2012)
	Remove the 11 Philips #00 screws holding down the battery. The battery lifts up and out. Battery Specs: Samsung Li-Ion 3.75V 22.75Wh 9000 mah SP3496A8H. GB/T18287-2000
	Disconnect 2 #00 philips screws holding the charging dock / microphone assembly. Some light adhesive holds it in place and then just lift out. Part # CUCIALTEC GT-P8110 POGO_MIC_RGBW LED FPCP
	Disconnect micro USB cable. Disconnect Speaker cable (immediately next to micro USB)
	Disconnect front facing camera. The camera just lifts out.
	Remove 1 philips #00 screw holding LED flash. Unplug flex cable. Flash pops out.
	Rear facing camera pops off with flat tool.Part #: DGC39V87 TP8110_G
	The volume buttons are held on with loose adhesive and come out easily with the aid of a flat pry tool.
	Disconnect the right speaker cable. The speaker lifts up and out.
	Remove 3 #00 Philips screws holding down the emi shield on the micro usb + headphone board + vibrator assembly.
	You can now lift the emi shield out and lift up on the vibrator assembly.
	Remove one screw holding down logic board.
	The logic board lifts up and out. There is a slight adhesive where the vibrator assembly cable goes under the logic board.
	You can now remove the left speaker.
	Remove 2 Philips #00 screws holding the Micro HDMI board. The board just lifts out.Part # GT-p8110hdmifpcb Macufactured 9/12/12
	The volume cable in held in place with adhesive. Use a flat tool to remove. Part # GT-P8110 PBA DS.HF. R. RO.7 C39.
	There are two heat shields on the logic board that can be removed by removing the 7 Philips head #00 screws. This allows you to disconnect the vibrator assembly. Here is some info from some of the logic board chips.(Flash Memory – SAMSUNG KLMAG2F2A) (Processor – SAMSUNG EXYNOS GZE003D1 K30F2F200M)(Broadcom – Wireless)(Amtel – mxt1664s)
	That’s it. The Nexus 10 display and digitizer are fused together, so that is where the take apart ends.

iPad Mini Part Locator

iPad Mini Parts

Below is a photo of all of the parts of the iPad Mini from the take apart we performed today.

http://www.reddit.com/r/apple/comments/119lqf/iphone_dropped_into_a_lake_in_april_i_just_got_it/

To our pleasure, Ken from the article brought in this iPhone for us to take a look at. The phone was one of the most corroded phones we’ve ever seen. (One of the most because lake water doesn’t corrode quite as bad as urine does. ) The internals of the unit were actually in pretty good shape all things considered.

With our new iPhone Logic Board Repair program we were able to get the board and dock connector cleaned up enough to be able to connect it a computer and upgrade to i0S 6. (Had Ken wanted the data from the phone, we could have recovered it, but he opted for a restore. )

This was about the extent to which the iPhone functioned however. The digitizer worked, but the LCD had a halo effect around the edges. The rear camera worked, but the front facetime camera did not due to unrepairable corrosion on the facetime connector. Heavy corrosion also prevented the speaker assembly and wi-fi to work on the iPhone as well.

The battery on the unit would swell when plugged in, and as this was a hazard to our staff, we replaced it.

The midframe and screws were in the worst shape due to rust. The volume button screw had rusted to the point where the volume buttons pushed into the phone when pressed. The sim card eject lever had also rusted and broken which made removing the sim difficult.

While the logic board in the phone was partially functional, we replaced the board in the phone to test the rest of the internals such as the speakers and the cameras. The speakers worked albeit with a horrible muddy sound. The cameras worked as well but produced cloudy images.

The story of this phone is pretty incredible. The fact that it functioned to the extent it did after seeing the type of damage inside is miraculous.

A big thanks to Ken for letting us work on this one.