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 Post subject: PB12 Al - swapped logicboard, now it doesn't see battery
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:34 pm 
Great site! I'm hoping someone will assist with this question.

PB12, 1.33GHZ - I was having issues with it hanging at the most inconvenient times. Most of the time the kernel would panic and throw the screen that said the machine must be restarted other times, it would just hang. At times it would run great for a day, at times it would lock up quite easily. I pulled the SoDIMM as an easy first check - no different.

So I bought a logicboard from ebay and worked through the harrowing swap process. Upon getting everything back together again, I can no longer use it on battery. After boot, the battery indicator on the top of the screen shows 'calculating' for some time and then just an 'X'. The battery shows 3/4 of a charge on its indicator lights. I've swapped the batteries with the one from my 1.5GHz pb12 and I can say with confidence that it isn't the battery. So the question is: "is there an easy fix?" (i.e. a connector that I maybe didn't get fully engaged?) or is it the (new to me) logicboard?

Is there the chance that it is the DC-DC board and that perhaps it was that all along?

Thanks in advance - I look forward to the medics' diagnosis!
--TAQMan


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 Post subject: one more note
PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:38 pm 
I should note that I've done the PMU/SMC reset a couple times without any better luck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2003 6:35 am
Posts: 977
well kernel panics would be a software issue or the logic board, so you were right in getting the new board. for the new battery issue, about all it can be is the dc-dc board or the logic board.

If it wasn't doing it before, I'd say its the logic board, but you can't be sure until you try a new DC-DC board.


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 Post subject: thanks!
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:58 pm 
Thanks for the help. I figured the next logical step was to go back to my original logicboard to confirm that the DC-to-DC board was still good. This, of course after pulling it, inspecting, and re-seating to make sure it isn't something simple.

Any idea if there are testpoints that a guy can probe with a voltmeter?


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 Post subject: tip for heat sink screws?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:46 pm 
Any tips for getting the heatsink screws (the big ones with springs) to back out easily. When I pulled the original logicboard, the entire post assembly let go from the logicboard.

I'm hoping because this isn't the original the female posts back of the screws easier.


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